History of the highlands

Part 2 – By Mere Nailatikau

After a steep, challenging climb up the mountain bordering the village, we arrived in Nabutautau and were welcomed into the village hall. After resting our tired bodies, we were treated to refreshments while we showered and prepared for dinner. As was customary in both villages, we participated in a sevusevu welcoming ceremony, meeting our hosts and introducing ourselves. We then had the opportunity to meet Mr Roko and hear his account of the story of Reverend Baker and his travelling companions who lost their lives in the village, an event which had a far-reaching impact on the village, the Methodist church, and much of the political and religious dynamics that shaped Fiji as a new colony at the time. 

As a returning traveller, it was deeply moving and gratifying to see how the villages of Naga and Nabutautau have grown and developed over the years. The small village hall in Naga has been extended, and kitchen and bathroom facilities have been given a facelift. The tremendous warmth and hospitality remain unchanged, and it is heartening to meet new and confident guides and people. Nabutautau has built a second village hall and has a new kitchen facility built, with upgraded amenities as well. All that said, the places have maintained their untouched and pristine character, while showing improvements and growth in areas that the villagers have prioritized. 

I hope that this continues, and leave as always with a tired body and a full heart. My favourite thing about this experience – my fourth if I am counting correctly – is getting to share it with colleagues and meet new hikers. There is always something new to learn from the guides and trip coordinators. I recommend it for return guests, who may appreciate seeing how the villages have grown and how the landscape changes over the trekking season – breathtakingly beautiful. There are countless conversations about the history, ecology, and cultural significance of the area, alongside all the evolving social dynamics that make the place so special.