This article is reproduced here with the kind permission of Fiji Traveller and the author, Miles Young.
As we stood at the bottom of a very steep hill, I felt a flicker of doubt for the first time of the trek. We had been walking for a full day, punctuated with some very welcome swims, and this was our final ascent before arriving in Nabutautau village. And it was daunting.
I need not have worried. A combination of adrenaline, encouragement from our patient guides and the example of our fellow hikers meant we got up that hill and were rewarded with wonderful views for our efforts.
Doing a trip with Talanoa Treks has been on my bucket list for years. I had listened to friends who had raved about it and finally made my booking for the last hike of the season in November, intending (but failing) to train in preparation.
The whole experience was brilliant.
After an interesting drive of just over three hours from Suva, we arrived at our first stop, Naga village, in the Nadrau district. We were met by our guide at the community hall, presented our sevusevu (an offering to seek acceptance into the village) and then relaxed.
We talked quietly, naturally mimicking the ambience of the village, and snacked on coboi (lemongrass) tea and banana chips and cassava cake. It was a preview of one of trip highlights – the amazing food that we were plied with at all our stops. Most of it was vegetarian and seasonal, sourced directly from the village and clearly prepared with love and care.
Having introduced myself as having paternal links to Levuka, Ovalau in the province of Lomaiviti, we were given a quick introduction to traditional ties across provinces, and my tau ensured my plate was piled high for the remainder of the trip!
We took in the sounds of nature and the village, the rustling of leaves, crowing of roosters, the occasional barking of dogs and the chirping of birds. Otherwise, it was very quiet, a relief from the hustle and bustle of Suva.
There is no internet connection, so I successfully avoided sending messages back to the office or checking my emails. For the next couple of days I was free of digital connectivity, and therefore free of stress!
Before our evening meal we took a one hour walk to stretch our legs and came upon men carrying their rugby boots. Having finished their work for the day, they were gathering for a training run and pick-up game of sevens in preparation for a tournament to be held that weekend in Lautoka, so we took some time to check out their form. Watching the players run around the rara, I wondered whether the next Flying Fijian or Fijiana was amongst them.
Naga also features a home thatched in the traditional style which is wonderful to see.
After a sound night’s sleep in the village hall, our second day is spent trekking from Naga to Nabutautau. We walked for 11km, with a break for lunch and another highlight, the natural waterslide into the Sigatoka river, a fun way to plunge into the refreshing water.
This trek winds through grasslands and shaded forested areas, offers panoramic views of the rolling hills of Navosa and the far horizon, and crosses rivers and streams. At this time of year it is hot, but the altitude and a strong breeze provided some relief, particularly when the sun set. The panoramic views from the high vantage points along our trek made me dream of hang gliding across the interior of Fiji, lost in time and competing with the birds for air space.
We passed thick bamboo groves, people at work on the land and many farm animals including horses, my favourite animal, and an essential mode of transport in this remote region. The guides offered encouragement and stories of the land, their engagement with the Talanoa Treks team, and how this has benefited their communities, enabling them for example, to construct a second community hall and extend a shared kitchen.
Nabutautau is famously the site where European missionary, Reverend Thomas Baker and his travelling companions died. This incident and the rivalries and political context surrounding it have proved a critical part of Fiji’s history. My 15-year-old daughter, who took time out of school to accompany me on this trek, had learnt about Reverend Baker in her history class, so being present in the village of Nabutautau brought new understanding to what she had learnt at school.
We were also taken to the burial site of villagers who died from the measles epidemic, where you could feel a powerful energy.
Our local guide gave his telling of these important moments in local history and shared many other stories, saying his favourite part of guiding is meeting new friends and learning snippets of new languages.
We re-learnt a language during our trek as well – the language of silence and observation, of being wholly present without any digital distractions, and of listening to your body and breath.
I wholeheartedly recommend a trip with Talanoa Treks to locals who have not had the chance to explore this remote and spectacular part of Fiji, and to visitors looking for something beyond our beautiful beaches. 
The Talanoa Treks website has lots of useful information about their treks, what to expect and how to prepare. talanoa-treks-fiji.com
Talanoa Treks x Duavata Collective
Talanoa Treks is a founding member of the Duavatu Collective, a network of tourism operators committed to putting sustainable practices at the centre of what they do. Duavata Collective members see travel as a learning experience and the respectful exchange of ideas, and consider sustainability from an environmental and social perspective, in the way they collaborate with communities and integrate cultural heritage and cultural industries in what they offer visitors. You can learn more at www.duavatasustainabletourism.org
This article was first published in Fiji Traveller Issue 11 2025. If you enjoyed reading it please check out all the other great content at Fiji Traveller and pick up the latest copy for your coffee table.
If you’d like to experience this hike with Talanoa Treks check out our Highland Escape itinerary.
All images credit Miles Young / Fiji Traveller.
